Inside Zarzis

The quiet fishing port at the crossroads of Tunisian culture

Zarzis, a fishing port in Tunisia, is a cultural crossroads home to a small Jewish community, indigenous black Tunisians, European retirees, and migrants aiming for Europe. Although overshadowed by the nearby tourist hub of Djerba, Zarzis features colonial architecture, a Jewish neighborhood, and a mix of diverse inhabitants. Despite its cultural richness, interaction between locals and non-Tunisian migrants is often limited.

The town has a rich fishing heritage, with fishermen frequently rescuing migrants from dangerous sea voyages. The Jewish neighborhood, the Hara, contains several synagogues and schools, reflecting a longstanding yet harmonious Jewish presence. However, Zarzis also contends with racial issues affecting both black Tunisians and migrants. The town serves as a poignant reminder of the migrant crisis, with its waters often bringing in both survivors and the deceased from perilous Mediterranean crossings.

Zarzis, Tunisia. 2021.


Zarzis is the largest fishing port in southeast Tunisia, and along with the better-known island of Djerba to the north, is home to a deeply-rooted fishing culture. - Paula González Gavilanes
Zarzis is the largest fishing port in southeast Tunisia, and along with the better-known island of Djerba to the north, is home to a deeply-rooted fishing culture.
Fishermen in Zarzis next to their boats in the neighborhood of Sonia Plage, after coming back from a fishing trip. - Paula González Gavilanes
Fishermen in Zarzis next to their boats in the neighborhood of Sonia Plage, after coming back from a fishing trip.
Restaurant Le Grand Bleu opened its doors in 2004. Its specialty is grilled wolf fish, cuttlefish, and seafood platters, all spiced with homemade Harissa. - Paula González Gavilanes
Restaurant Le Grand Bleu opened its doors in 2004. Its specialty is grilled wolf fish, cuttlefish, and seafood platters, all spiced with homemade Harissa.
At Restaurant Le Grand Bleu, fresh fish is hauled in from the port daily, and seasoned with salt, cumin, turmeric, and olive oil from the olive orchards around Zarzis. - Paula González Gavilanes
At Restaurant Le Grand Bleu, fresh fish is hauled in from the port daily, and seasoned with salt, cumin, turmeric, and olive oil from the olive orchards around Zarzis.
The Hara is the tiny Jewish neighborhood at the center of Zarzis. The Hara is dotted with shop after shop selling gold jewelry, the neighborhood’s specialty. - Paula González Gavilanes
The Hara is the tiny Jewish neighborhood at the center of Zarzis. The Hara is dotted with shop after shop selling gold jewelry, the neighborhood’s specialty.
The Hara is framed by arches over each of its entrances. In the photograph we see the main entrance, and just outside stands Zarzis’ most important mosque. - Paula González Gavilanes
The Hara is framed by arches over each of its entrances. In the photograph we see the main entrance, and just outside stands Zarzis’ most important mosque.
The neighborhood is home to more than a half dozen small synagogues. The prayer hall in one of the synagogues in the Jewish neighborhood in Zarzis. - Paula González Gavilanes
The neighborhood is home to more than a half dozen small synagogues. The prayer hall in one of the synagogues in the Jewish neighborhood in Zarzis.
David Boukhris, a prominent figure in the local Jewish community holds a photograph of his parents on their wedding day. - Paula González Gavilanes
David Boukhris, a prominent figure in the local Jewish community holds a photograph of his parents on their wedding day.
Outside of Zarzis is a migrant cemetery, looked after by volunteers. Many of the bodies were taken in by the fishermen of Zarzis. - Paula González Gavilanes
Outside of Zarzis is a migrant cemetery, looked after by volunteers. Many of the bodies were taken in by the fishermen of Zarzis.
In summer hotels are filled with tourists, but in the winter and after months of the Covid-19 travel restrictions, few tourists remain. - Paula González Gavilanes
In summer hotels are filled with tourists, but in the winter and after months of the Covid-19 travel restrictions, few tourists remain.
A sculpture representing an olive tree stands in a roundabout in the city center. Olives are Zarzis’ main agricultural product and the town is well known for its vast olive orchards. - Paula González Gavilanes
A sculpture representing an olive tree stands in a roundabout in the city center. Olives are Zarzis’ main agricultural product and the town is well known for its vast olive orchards.
Zarzis is the largest fishing port in southeast Tunisia, and along with the better-known island of Djerba to the north, is home to a deeply-rooted fishing culture. - Paula González Gavilanes
Fishermen in Zarzis next to their boats in the neighborhood of Sonia Plage, after coming back from a fishing trip. - Paula González Gavilanes
Restaurant Le Grand Bleu opened its doors in 2004. Its specialty is grilled wolf fish, cuttlefish, and seafood platters, all spiced with homemade Harissa. - Paula González Gavilanes
At Restaurant Le Grand Bleu, fresh fish is hauled in from the port daily, and seasoned with salt, cumin, turmeric, and olive oil from the olive orchards around Zarzis. - Paula González Gavilanes
The Hara is the tiny Jewish neighborhood at the center of Zarzis. The Hara is dotted with shop after shop selling gold jewelry, the neighborhood’s specialty. - Paula González Gavilanes
The Hara is framed by arches over each of its entrances. In the photograph we see the main entrance, and just outside stands Zarzis’ most important mosque. - Paula González Gavilanes
The neighborhood is home to more than a half dozen small synagogues. The prayer hall in one of the synagogues in the Jewish neighborhood in Zarzis. - Paula González Gavilanes
David Boukhris, a prominent figure in the local Jewish community holds a photograph of his parents on their wedding day. - Paula González Gavilanes
Outside of Zarzis is a migrant cemetery, looked after by volunteers. Many of the bodies were taken in by the fishermen of Zarzis. - Paula González Gavilanes
In summer hotels are filled with tourists, but in the winter and after months of the Covid-19 travel restrictions, few tourists remain. - Paula González Gavilanes
A sculpture representing an olive tree stands in a roundabout in the city center. Olives are Zarzis’ main agricultural product and the town is well known for its vast olive orchards. - Paula González Gavilanes
Published in Middle East Eye. To read it CLICK HERE - Paula González Gavilanes
Published in Middle East Eye. To read it CLICK HERE

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